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Looks at wave physics and explains how the shape and depth of the bay plays a key role in determining the shape of a wave. Also shows how a better understanding of physics is allowing improved surf-boards to...
A display of the time-dependent Gaussian wave function describing a free non-relativistic particle, and of the supporting mathematical concept necessary for the development of the spreading packet.
Behaviour of surface gravity waves in liquids. Experiments in open water channels.
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